• Taste Soul Food’s History and Future at Butterfunk Kitchen


    Spaetzle, the Swabian egg noodles most commonly associated with German cuisine, aren’t confined to any one shape or size. They can be long and skinny like spaghetti, twisted into short and stubby spirals, or pinched into imperfect knots. At Butterfunk Kitchen in Windsor Terrace, chef Chris Scott fashions his spaetzle into bite-size pillows with a […]

  • Tastes of West Africa and the South Delight at Wazobia

    Steamed into swollen, oblong bundles, Wazobia’s moimoi bear a striking resemblance to giant tamales, or maybe tubes of polenta. Break the Nigerian staple open, though, and the spongy dumplings — made from ground ewa oloyin, a type of brown cowpea also known as the “honey bean” — look more like Chinese lo mai gai, those […]

  • How to Eat and Drink This Summer at Rockaway Beach

    There are lots of ways to work up an appetite at Rockaway Beach. Just getting there on the weekend — either driving or taking the A train — is enough to make somebody hungry, never mind the swimming, running, beach soccer, or Zen-like application of SPF 50. Even just lying on a towel on the […]

  • Favorite Dishes #77: Brooklyn Star’s Cinnamon Bun

    Ahh, the simple pleasures of weekend life: sleeping in on Sundays. The smell and sound of bacon sizzling on the grill. And cinnamon buns?! For a confection so seemingly over-the-top, Brooklyn Star’s (593 Lorimer St, 718-599-8999) entry is surprisingly restrained in the chew. It maintains a satisfying dryness throughout, refusing to surrender into over-sweetened slop. There’s enough subtlety […]

  • Marcus Samuelsson Wants Streetbird to Be Harlem’s Diner

    Drop in to Red Rooster for dinner and a drink almost any night of the week, and you’ll likely feel swept up in a sea of Harlem royalty — neighbors greet one another over cocktails and connect each other with new friends; deals get signed at dining-room tables stacked with fried yardbird and sides of […]

  • Old Soul: Using Its Storied Past, Sylvia’s Leads Harlem Toward a Vibrant Future

    At midafternoon on a cold late-winter day, Tren’ness Woods-Black is perched at a table at Sylvia’s (328 Malcolm X Boulevard, 212-996-0660) in Harlem, eating cornbread and sipping hot tea, and insisting that I order a sweet tea. (“Welcome to soul,” she says.) The restaurant has been added onto a few times over the years, absorbing […]

  • What ‘Belongs’ in Harlem?

    As the internet blows up with rants about culture, race and authenticity in food, and Eddie Huang draws rigid lines between what does and doesn’t belong in the Harlem restaurant scene, here’s a brief reminder about the project we mentioned two weeks ago. Seasoned Vegan is about $6,500 away from reaching their goal to open […]

  • New Seafood Shack Comes to Bed-Stuy

    A block down from a fish n’ chips shack on Nostrand Avenue that’s been closed for months, a new, family-run seafood/soul food take-out spot opened about a month ago to fill the void. EfV decided to look past the pun-y name, “71.Ate,” and sample the fried whiting and chips. After a good dose of salt, […]