The taboon at Tuvia Feldman’s and chef Efi Nahon’s Upper West Side restaurant is covered in navy tiles, and is as impressive as any coveted Neapolitan wood-fired oven in town. At Bustan, the large furnace chars everything from whole fish and cuts of meat to six different kinds of flatbread. The blistered dough gets topped with clever pairings like cured tuna spiced with zaatar, or roasted peppers and Turkish pasturma, the precursor to modern-day pastrami. Above 14th Street, there’s no better place for modernized Middle Eastern cuisine.
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