FOOD ARCHIVES

Robert Sietsema At Masak; Tejal Rao At Governor

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Robert Sietsema says that Singaporean joint Masak is Asian rustic: “But instead of making diners dodge crab-shell fragments like at Fatty Crab, Masak delivers the primmer and more approachable chili crab dip.”

Tejal Rao heads out to DUMBO and eats at Governor, where she notes that the chef is both thoughtful and fresh: ” A lamb leg with blackened eggplant purée ($25) was like rereading a classic story, this time with someone’s brilliant little notes scribbled into the margins–ribbons of charred ramps, petals of pickled garlic.”

Rosemary’s gets one star from Pete Wells, who duly notes the long wait: “Many of those greyhounds look as if they could afford to pay far more than Rosemary’s asks: each vegetable antipasto is $5; the pastas are $14 or less. Given the quality, these are impressively low prices, and they provide another possible justification for the lines.”

The New Yorker reviews Catch in the Meatpacking District: “Hamachi tartare with pear and potato chips works better than expected; in fact, this cleanest of fish provides a neat staging ground for the delightfully weird intermingling of salty and sweet, crunchy and mushy.”

Ryan Sutton is convinced that the world’s best $9 hamburger comes from Parm: “The toppings are milky mozzarella and tangy marinara. No watery tomatoes, no iceberg lettuce.”

Michael Kaminer for the Daily News checks out Balthazar in SoHo, a place he claims feels quintessentially New York: “Take six impeccably fresh Escargots ($15), served in a cast-iron skillet and swimming in garlic butter. They’re the right kind of chewy, with a hint of brininess, a respectful riff on an indulgent classic.”

 

Highlights