Natu Kodi Biryani at Deccan Spice, Dish #57


Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our “Best of 2012” issue. Tune in every day (weekends, too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team.

[See More 100 Dishes: Leberkäse from Der Kommissar, Dish #58 | Polpettine Pizza — With a Gooey Egg — at Pulino’s, Dish #59]

The biryani comes with two sauces, and there are two big pieces of chicken in the serving. The ellipse in the foreground of the biryani is an egg.

Biryanis are big in Hyderabad, an important city in the Andhra Pradesh state of southeastern India. This particular type is a biryanization of a dish associated with the Dravidian Telugu people of the region, a country chicken dish featuring a boiled, masala-coated deep-fried egg. (They love eggs in Hyderabad.)

Natu Kodi Biryani is a weekends-only offering at Deccan Spice, a really wonderful new Hyderabadi restaurant in Jersey City, easy to get to on the PATH train from the West Side of Manhattan. The restaurant is a revelation for anyone interested in the diverse regional cuisines of India, many little understood by diners accustomed to Punjabi curries and Mughal vegetarian fare.

The biryani is already moist itself, and can be further moistened with the two sauces provided. One is like a raita, only more herbal and oniony, the other a curry sauce heavy on the fenugreek. The combination of poultry-flavored rice and sauces is sublime.

Deccan Spice
771 Newark Avenue
Jersey City, New Jersey

Deccan Spice is one of several amazing new regional Indian restaurants in Jersey City.