Year of the Takeout Day 108: Gobo

Five-Spice Tofu Rolls from Gobo (401 Sixth Avenue, 212-255-3902)

Gobo is a West Village vegetarian fixture with a lot of Chinese motifs on the menu. Although Year of the Takeout got tofu and mixed vegetables–a YotT-type restaurant staple–as our main meal, what stood out is the $6 tofu rolls.

The simplicity of the dish–firm bean curd wrapped in a spring-roll shell–belies its delightfulness. Served with a remoulade-like sauce, the slightly tart, vinegary dressing adds just enough zest to the milder, principle components.